Oldies but Goodies

Dec 1, 2002 12:00 PM, By Mark Nelson

I have a confession to make: I'm a used-gear junky. Just about everything in my home studio — synths, samplers, digital multitrack recorder, effects, even my desk and patch bay — originally belonged to strangers. I have bought (and sold) used gear since my earliest days as a musician, wired money to people I've never met, shipped valuable cargo halfway around the world on a promise, and lived to tell the tale.

In spite of the many horror stories in circulation, buying from auction sites or print classifieds is as safe as any arm's-length transaction, as long as you take a few simple precautions. In this column I'll discuss where to find the best deals, how to protect yourself, what to look for, and where to find manuals and service for older gear (see the sidebar “After You Buy”).

So why not just buy new stuff and avoid the hassles? Well, for one thing, used gear usually sells for half as much as new. Also, by the time a product reaches the used market, it has often developed a substantial user base. That base can prove invaluable to you when you are researching what to buy; additionally, it will help you in determining what type of support and assistance you can expect to get after you have made your purchase.

For the purposes of this article, let's differentiate between the terms vintage and used. Vintage, unlike used, connotes a certain level of desirability, function, and class that goes beyond mere age.

CHOOSE WISELY

Before you start bidding or make an offer on anything, know what you want and why you want it. Peruse online user groups (most manufacturers maintain links) or run a search on the name of the product — and don't be shy about asking questions. Subscribe to relevant newsgroups, many of which have extensive searchable archives (see the sidebar “Net Sources”). And of course, don't overlook EM's online review archives.

Check out the manufacturer's Web site to learn about the product and to read any available technical reports. Surprisingly, even gear that's been off the market for years may still be supported with downloadable updates, user tips, FAQs, and more. Try to learn if a product has recently been orphaned (dropped from the development process). Dead-end gear may look like a bargain, but it's not if you can't get media, accessories, and supplies.

Purchasing items having obsolete technology and an entrenched user base is another story. Just because everyone's hyped about 24-bit, 96 kHz audio doesn't mean you should pass on a perfectly good 16-bit recorder if it fits your needs and budget. Or consider this: the venerable Yamaha SPX 90 digital multi-effects processor remains a staple in many studios even though it boasts only 12-bit internal processing. Some obsolete gear attracts a fanatical following — yet another reason to peruse user groups.

Once you have an idea of what you want, go to PrePal.com to check the price — it tracks all of the major online auctions, posting daily updates for more than 3,500 products in its database (see Fig. 1). PrePal.com is a great resource for finding pro and project-studio gear and synths; sadly, no such service exists for guitars and other musical instruments. However, you can get a pretty good idea of current selling prices for those by searching recently completed auctions or the past few weeks of the Sunday classifieds.

But be forewarned: I've noticed a couple of instances in which the prices for used gear were actually higher than what you'd pay for the same gear new from a discount retailer. It therefore pays to check the new prices, too.

GOING ONCE, GOING TWICE

EBay is the world's biggest garage sale — sooner or later just about everything real or imagined shows up for auction on this hugely successful, and large, Web site (see Fig. 2). There are many additional general-purpose auctions on line, offering everything from cars to collectibles. One, Digibid, specializes in equipment relating to music, video, and film, making it a good place to begin your search.

The secret to success with auctions is to know your price and stick to it. Don't get caught in a bidding war just to satisfy your ego; by the time the smoke clears, you may realize your winning bid was half your annual salary.

By the same token, you can't simply post your maximum bid and walk away — some dog is sure to top you. I've seen people cruise auction sites, upping bids by a dollar or two seemingly at random. Please don't adopt this strategy, because it doesn't work and it's really annoying.

I like to automate the bidding process, letting my robot agent top each new bid as it's placed, up to a preselected maximum. Most auction sites offer this service. If you'd rather participate, most of the action happens toward closing time, so set your alarm. Sometimes it all comes down to who's quickest with the Send button at the final gun.

Be aware of reserves, which are hidden minimum prices. It's pretty frustrating to discover after two weeks of nail biting that your winning bid won't be accepted after all. Digibid doesn't allow reserves; minimum bids are clearly posted.

PROTECT YOURSELF

EBay's system of rating sellers (and buyers) offers a modest amount of protection. Nonetheless, trust is the name of the game. Escrow services (optional on eBay, but standard on Digibid) foster peace of mind. Here's how they work: both the buyer and the seller agree to use the service and negotiate the terms. Once you win a bid, the escrow service holds on to your payment until you've received and inspected the gear. If it isn't as advertised, you can return it for a full refund, less a small handling charge.

If the seller is signed up with an online payment service such as PayPal, you get fraud protection built in to your credit card without the risk of giving a stranger your number.

The overwhelming majority of sellers are folks just like you who are looking to turn over some of their surplus gear. Nevertheless, it's never a bad idea to be careful. Be wary of generic e-mail accounts like hotmail.com or yahoo.com — they are impossible to trace if something does go wrong. Always make sure you get (and verify) a phone number, as well as a valid street address.

CLASSIFIED INFORMATION

As with the classified section in print publications such as EM, online classified ads can be a great place to check out when trying to pick up used gear. Away from the bidding frenzy, you have time to ask questions, negotiate a price, and work out details of shipping and payment. User groups, forums, and news groups often allow members to post ads, a great resource when you are looking for something specific. Dedicated classified sites range from huge international listings to tiny pages with a few specialized ads. A number of online retailers and informational sites host independent classified sites as well.

Most classifieds work the same way: you contact the seller directly to make the deal. At some sites you post your offer for a set amount of time, during which the seller can accept it or pass.